Bulgaria

When East meets West, cultural combinations are always interesting and sometimes amusing. Bulgaria is both where the Romans built great fortress cities, and later the Ottoman Empire ruled. During an April 2009 trip through Bulgaria, I should have noted my varying proximity to the Turkish border. It might have helped anticipate the available facilities.

At least my requests for toilets were generally understood in a country with a totally incomprehensible language. The scenery is breathtaking enough that the usual “oohs” and “ahs” readily translate. When not accompanied by clutch my middle, it was understood I was indeed referring to the vistas.

Fortunately I traveled in very competent hands. Everything, history, scenery, architecture, language, even ordering food, was ably described and handled by Patrick, our extraordinary driver and guide. His enthusiasm, knowledge, and genuine concern for our well being never faltered during my eight days of touring.

Patrick was correct in saying he was going to show our little group (3 of us plus Patrick) a “hidden” Bulgaria few Americans experience. International arrival is in Sofia, a generally depressingly grim city with a few 17th and 18th century architectural masterpieces in between the soviet style buildings. A day trip up to the 14th century Rila Monastery, one of Bulgaria’s many Unesco World Heritage sites was a nice way to recover from jetlag. Our journey into Bulgaria really began the next day with a drive to the unpronounceable city of Koprivshititsa. The city is as historically important to Bulgaria as its name is long. This was the center of the April 1876 uprising against the Ottoman Empire, ending tragically with the slaughter of thousands, many of them women and children. This was my first exposure to a unique architectural feature of traditional Bulgarian houses. The dwellings are two-story, with an upper floor of wood construction overhanging the first floor made of stone. There are two doorways; a large one for the horse-drawn carriages and another sized for people. I didn’t ask if there were also separate bathrooms for all entrants.

Over the centuries Bulgarians were adept at adopting norms and styles from many conquerors. In delightful, cobblestone street hilly Plovdiv the Hindlian house has an intriguing carved marble room for one’s ablutions. Where the runoff accumulated was not obvious. Some of the older (and not so older) sanctuaries were adorned with elaborate tiles or carvings. Perhaps the idea was, or is, to instill a little beauty in an otherwise basic and dreary space.

For me, the most delightful city in Bulgaria is Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria’s medieval capitol. With a river setting, sidewalk cafes, pretty shops, and excellent restaurants it is a reminder of more relaxed slightly older, European style. The only problem was, as usual communication, especially when negotiating a purchase. I didn’t try asking about size—taking the dress off the mannequin and handing over Bulgarian leis worked just fine. I just wish I could have told her it was worn to a black-tie fundraising affair, and I delighted in saying it was purchased in Veliko Tarnovo!

Bulgaria, its eastern boundary the Black Sea, bordered by Turkey, Greece, Romania, Macedonia and Serbia/Montenegro, is a fascinating mix of old Roman and even older Thracian ruins, intricately painted13th century monasteries, old cities clinging to hillsides, beautiful vistas of mountains and rivers. This was the border region for the world’s great empires, Roman and Ottoman. The multi-cultural influence is reflected in great food (fresh vegetable and fruits, rich yogurt and cheese, heavy meats and Black Sea fish), charming hotels, ancient monasteries and quaint villages. East and West can both be found here, although in sensitive matters, west does prevail.