It is called Eastern Europe, but Romania is the geographical center of Europe. Or so Andrei, our Romanian guide, claimed. Without a handy world atlas to pull out of my bag, there was no point in disagreeing. Besides, in modern Europe such labels as east and west are fast blurring. Eastern Europe used to be defined by style, accommodations, food, and bathrooms. But I found Romania in April 2009 to have some of the cleanest, most modern and well cared for roadside rest stops anywhere. Even the facilities at legendary Bran Castle were acceptable, undoubtedly much improved from Dracula’s days.
Dracula may be fiction, but the associated imposing 14th century castle, especially on an appropriately overcast day, is a reminder of Romania’s complicated and multi-ethnic history. Originally built by the Saxons, the last inhabitant was Queen Marie of Romania, a granddaughter of Queen Victoria. The large central Transylvanian region is still largely ethnic Hungarian, and in some of the small villages Hungarian is still spoken. Throughout the country there are Germans and Gypsies, Romans and Romanians, and a rich mixture of every Baltic nationality.
Geographically the Romanian countryside is as varied as its population. The spectacular Carpathians wind around three sides of Romania. The Maramures region is dotted with legendary wooden churches and little town where elaborately carved wooden doorways are a local status symbol. Transportation is just as likely to be by horse-drawn wagon as a minivan. In Bucovenia there are painted churches with colors as vibrant as when first painted in the 14th century. In Germanic Brasov, the imposing Black Church dominates a charming square. Called the Piata Sfatului, legend has this as the site where the Pied Piper emerged with the German children.
It would be impossible not to enjoy Sibiu, with cobblestone streets, town square lined with charming shops and pedestrian-only bridges over the river. Besides staying at the opulent old-world style Imparatul Romanilor was a special treat. It is easy to imagine grand dukes and duchesses in the high-ceiling, ornate parlors, or unpacking trunks in the multi-roomed accommodations. Still, my favorite place would have to be Sighisoara, birthplace of Vlad the Impaler. The old fortress city is still surrounded by the original walls and vehicular traffic is very restricted. The clock tower of the old citadel may be full of tourists, but it is still fascinating, as is the torture chamber and museum. The restaurants may be overpriced, but still highly enjoyable. Besides, what can compare with staying in an old bishop’s palace, now the Hotel Sighisoara? I have to wonder what would the old bishops think of a woman addressing bodily functions in one of his rooms.
.